Posts Tagged ‘Texas’
Candy, my parents’ rat terrier-chihuahua mix prefers to sleep in the middle of all the pillows when possible.
I took these pictures last fall, on a hot October day right before I went swimming in the gulf and stayed in the water by myself for at least an hour. (A big deal, considering how terrified I am of lake water—for some reason the ocean does not inspire the same zombie nightmares…)
The drive into Galveston along Broadway is rather schizophrenic, I-45 turns into the Gulf Freeway, and you pass by houses on stilts that look like they belong in Cape Hattaras, North Carolina. And you blink and the landscape turns into Florida— with motorbikes zooming past, huge parking lots, and families crowding around rainbow umbrellas on the main strip of the beach. (But! Keep driving, there’s a secret, less crowded beach ahead.) And then you’re on Broadway Avenue, lined with skinny palm trees and Victorian mansions that have a definite New Orleans influence with their wrought iron fencing and skinny clapboard shutters. It’s this area of Galvestson I love the most because, um, do the above pictures look at all like they were taken at a Gulf Coast city in Texas?
the Houston neighbourhood of River Oaks is apparently one of the most affluent neighbourhoods in the US, and unlike many of the wealthy areas in Houston, it’s not an isolated, gated community. it’s right downtown, and the gorgeous homes range from modest colonial revival houses to impressive beaux arts mansions and french-styled chateaus.
and, because everything is bigger in Texas, the residents of River Oaks go all out for Christmas. however, their decorations are not a do-it-yourself job: professionals are hired to put up lights, sometimes wrapping almost every single branch of a tree—the cost of which is rumoured to be in the tens of thousands of dollars range.
is it worth it? tonight we (and dozens of other cars and tour buses) drove around River Oaks and i took some footage of favourite properties.
(please excuse the shaky footage and random family commentary! and enjoy!)
or, reasons why i am obsessed with the American South.
in addition to his current sojourn, my dad lived in Houston for a few years in the 90s. Toronto was still home, but we spent two Christmases chasing armadillos, sunning on Galveston Beach, and opening presents under a tree decorated with sequined cactus and chili pepper ornaments.
my first name was chosen by my mom after she read an issue of National Geographic that featured an article about Southern Debutantes, one of whom was named Paige. so: it’s been ingrained since birth.
three: pop culture.
Tim Riggins and Scarlett O’Hara. need i say more?
four: because Terra and i went to a high school football game in Katy, TX, last week during Homecoming and nothing from my childhood will ever amount to the over the top, epic event that is friday night football in Texas.
the images above are of students at Cinco Ranch High and they’re wearing a Texas tradition i wasn’t aware of until we walked into Rhodes Stadium. they’re homecoming mums and garters and the easiest way to explain is that the boyfriends’ mothers make mums for the girls, and the girlfriends’ mothers make garters for the boys. (and these pairs of moms usually coordinate, because mums and garters are always better when they match!) mums include toys, miles of ribbon, lights, games, whistles, custom monograms, team colours, and about a dozen other things that push them from “interesting” to “beyond ridiculous”.
of course, not every parent has the time to make a mum, so all the floral shops, grocery stores, and craft centers sell them as well. for between $50-$200. yes, high school homecoming is big business in Texas.
the couples wear their mums and garters all day at school, and then to the homecoming football game at night—and some of the girls decorate overalls to wear as well, though as some students told us “that’s a really sau-thern thing to do.” if you’re a senior, your mum will be white and silver or gold, otherwise it must be in your school’s colours. oh, and yes: this Texas ritual is what i’ll be dressing up as for Halloween.
on to the actual game! let’s see, Terra and i counted:
– about 50 football players
– 16 varsity cheerleaders
– 50 or so girls on the drill team (plus 10 dance leads)
– 17 coaches
– a half dozen or so water girls and boys, and another half dozen or so flag runners
– a 20 person choir
– and a 200 person marching band
the other team wasn’t so stacked, and so you’ll notice that they didn’t exactly fill the “away” stands at the game. Cinco Ranch’s side, however, was packed, totaling approximately 5000 fans all in maroon.
but then! it wasn’t just any game last friday night: it was homecoming! so, in addition to the parents, the students, and the alumni, there were twelve students who made up the homecoming court. and the court, dressed in gowns and suits, walked the stands until halftime, when they joined their parents, the marching band, drill team, and flag runners on the field to announce the new homecoming king and queen—crowned, of course, by last year’s homecoming king and queen. (both now attend my favourite college, UT Austin.)
Cinco Ranch won the game, of course: 41-22. and then it was time for the post-game show. (because the usual halftime performance was pushed back thanks to the homecoming ceremony!) the show included a kick line that easily rivaled the Rockettes, and a ten minute choreographed number with all 200 marching band members—and an interpretive dance troupe.
yep, just another friday night in Katy, TX.
i’ve been driving the last four days, repositioning my mom and the family dog, Candy, from Toronto to Houston for the fall/winter months. (yes, repositioning… like a cruise ship, setting up port each season in the place with the most favourable climate. my dad lives in Houston year-round but my mom flees to Toronto when the summer Texas heat gets to be too much.)
first stop was Dayton, Ohio… which was nothing noteworthy (sorry, Ohio!) though i did go to a Cracker Barrel for the first time and i still feel weird about that. (if you’ve been to a Cracker Barrel you’ll know what i mean, right?)
from Ohio we headed into Kentucky and i, having a thing for horses, totally fell in love with the state. rolling hills, miles of wooden fencing—it’s beautiful. we stopped in Lexington and watched a bit of the World Equestrian Games from a live TV in the main square and i got a “Southern Sundae” from one of the food vendors, which i really regret not taking a picture of. so, please imagine: layers of pulled pork, baked beans, and coleslaw topped with a corn muffin, served in a tall glass. (Toronto friends, this will be recreated in the future!)
on our way out of Lexington we detoured about 20 miles into Marion County, to tour the Maker’s Mark distillery in Loretto. bad news: we got there too late to do a tour. good news: we got there just in time to sneak into another group’s tasting.
Nashville, Tennessee was our next stop and, um, secret: i’ve been listening to a lot of country music lately so it was interesting to see the place where it all happens. (even if you don’t like country music, the idea of it being this ridiculous self-contained industry is still fascinating, and do find a way to read this recent New Yorker piece on Brad Paisley.)
the area around our hotel was “Music Alley” which is just an endless neighbourhood of recording studios—even after midnight on a thursday, when i took Candy for a walk, you could still hear songs playing from inside the highest towers. i bought cowboy boots on Broadway and also put Candy on a saddle for a ride outside one of the bars on 2nd Street. Nashville, i will return soon to explore you further.
friday! onward south through Mississippi and Alabama via the Natchez Trace parkway which my sister and mom had spent much time previous to our departure celebrating, because of its beauty and their feelings that it was the “best way to get to Texas”. this is a lie, unless, of course, your driving goals include going as slowly as possible (50mph! are you kidding me?) on a single lane highway through trees and meadows which at first are pretty but eventually just seem like the same roll of stock footage throughout your 5 hour drive. i know this does appeal to some people but i really, really enjoy seeing urban sprawl and country living while i drive and this just wasn’t part of the Natchez Trace.
however, i will credit the Trace with showing me something i have endlessly romanticized: cotton!
cotton fields are stunning. the plants almost look purple, topped with perfect, fluffy white poufs. i ran into a field and plucked off a souvenir boll to bring home, a move partially inspired by my current re-reading of Gone With The Wind but mainly because when do you ever see cotton in its natural state? does the cotton boll count as a skeuomorph—because we process the plant and then mass reproduce it into the original ball shape?
our last night was spent in Ridgeland, Mississippi, where i ate the best oyster po’boy, and from there we forfeited any further pit stops to make it home to Houston within seven hours. and Texas? it’s… the Texas i know and love: fast highways, perfectly humid weather, endless strip malls, and the comforts (aka strong margaritas) of my parents’ house.
however, the journey doesn’t end here! my bff Terra has arrived today and we’re heading out on a road trip of our own. so: more adventure to come, from San Antonio, Marfa, and Austin, plus all the other sights we’ll find deep in the heart of Texas.